Photo provided by Guy Hand
The screenplay almost writes itself: 60-year-old small-town resort is taken over by big-city tycoon, turned into a private club, locking the locals out of a cherished community institution. But then the real-estate boom bombs, the tycoon’s elitist empire falters and, in a triumphal final scene, new, egalitarian owners storm the gates and throw the doors open, again, to throngs of grateful natives.
That’s the Hollywood version, but it hews pretty closely to the story I heard from many McCall residents concerning the contentious 15-some-years when a San Diego-based corporation turned Shore Lodge into the private Whitetail Club. Even when Whitetail owner Doug Manchester reopened the Lodge’s restaurant to the public in 2004, animosity between townies and the Club was so entrenched, many refused to take Manchester up on the offer. Only last October, when new, Idaho-based owners reopened the Lodge did a good number of locals begin to re-patronize the resort and its restaurants.
I hadn’t spent a weekend at Shore Lodge in years, but the story was playing perfectly to script on the Friday night my wife and I checked into a lovely and reasonably priced suite, then settled at a stunning, window-side table in the newly renovated Narrows restaurant. Rough-hewn beams accented by sandy-brown and forest-green furnishings echoed a Payette Lake panorama propped in cumulus clouds, blue water and flitting barn swallows. If that wasn’t prelude enough, our waiter’s enthusiastic detailing of the night’s array of grass-fed beef, organic chicken and fresh Smith Ferry morels had this newly returning commoner feeling downright privileged.
The Idaho potato soup ($6) reinforced the feeling. That pale gold puree carried the silky taste of pedigree, its surface dotted with glistening pools of truffle oil. Elegant too, the Friday night special of prime rib ($26) arrived artfully framed by grilled asparagus, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish sauce. Too bad the halibut topped with a ground morel crust ($28) brought an unplanned plot twist to my little internal screenplay: handsome, but hopelessly overcooked, that fish foreshadowed a weekend of meals that would be less predictable and pleasurable than the script in my head called for.
Those inconsistencies were due, at least in part, to the continuing renovation of Shore Lodge. On our late May weekend, construction equipment littered the Lodge’s lakeside and, just three weeks before, Narrows itself had moved from downstairs to its redesigned digs on the lobby level. (The lower level will open this summer as the Lake Grill, a casual dining venue.)
Still, the next morning’s nearly cold and likely canned refried beans, which accompanied a so-so breakfast of enchiladas and eggs ($12), made it hard to muster a generous spirit. Then the tasty Northwest Omelet ($13) popped me back on script. With fresh morels, smoked Idaho trout and tangy goat cheese, that omelet reaffirmed Shore Lodge’s natural potential as a showcase for Northwest cuisine.
The same conflicting story lines tangled at lunch. Venison sirloin chili ($4/cup) was meaty, if a bit sweet; the Wild Baby Field Green salad ($7) sparkled with port poached pear slices and Maytag blue cheese; but the McCall Cobb ($12) seemed to sulk under the weight of avocado slices turned brown with age.
Saturday’s dinner mixed the message again with a massive lamb shank ($26) that lacked the depth of flavor I expect from a long braise, and a Provencal Bouillabaisse ($26) that simply didn’t shine compared to memorable fish stews I’ve had in the past. The panna cotta dessert, however, made with creme fraiche and huckleberry coulis ($7) was rich, nuanced and delicious.
Now I admit to holding Narrows to a high standard, but the location and careful renovation begs for it. Shore Lodge could be, and should be, one of Idaho’s premier public destinations – and with a focused commitment in the kitchen, this story could have the delectable ending it deserves.
For full story go to: http://www.idahostatesman.com/204/story/799448.html
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Guy Hand is a writer, public radio producer and photographer specializing in food and agriculture.
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