How to Cook a Wolf

Back in 1942, the famous and often funny food writer M.F.K. Fisher wrote a book called How to Cook a Wolf.  She meant it metaphorically, the wolf as a symbol for the World War that was raging and the food shortages created by that conflict. How to Cook a Wolf was a book about making due during times of adversity. There were lots of recipes, if no actual dishes featuring bits of wolf.

Over the intervening years, many Americans began to see the big-bad-wolf metaphor as outdated; good for story books but casting that was less than accurate in light of studies that showed the wolf as an integral part of wild land ecology and a creature with many apparently admirable qualities.

Wolf advocates likely weren’t thinking of flavor as one of those qualities.

Now that the State of Idaho has opened a hunting season on its wolves, there’s been some less than metaphorical talk about this new game meat.  Here’s a recent Letter to the Editor from the Idaho Statesman that includes a recipe that may be helpful to those with wolf tags and a strong stomach (I particularly appreciate the advice to check for dog collars before proceeding):

You can eat the wolf you kill

We Idahoans, being a sporting bunch that generally eats what it kills, now have a new taste treat available to successful hunters: wolf. Good recipes for wolf are hard to come by, however, so here is one I found in an old family recipe book used sometime before all the wolves were previously exterminated.

Wolf should be cleaned and gutted in the field immediately after being shot. First make sure you haven’t shot someone’s dog by checking for a collar; then, when you have confirmed your kill, clean the wolf, making sure to wear thick gloves to prevent the possibility of being bitten by a wolf playing possum.

Skin the wolf. Then clean out all blood and blood clots under running water. After the wolf is skinned, very little fat remains and it is not objectionable in flavor or odor. Cut wolves into quarters. Dry the pieces and keep cool on the trip home. Wolves may be refrigerated and prepared using your favorite recipe for bear within three days or wrapped and frozen for later. Enjoy with Idaho’s famous potatoes.

GRETCHEN BATES, Boise

M.F.K. Fisher concludes How to Cook a Wolf with this bit of wisdom: “Since we must eat to live, we might as well do it with both grace and gusto.”  Wolf Bourguignon anyone?