Market & Garden Report: Morel Mushrooms

June 11, 2010
By Guy Hand

Fresh Idaho morels

[HOST INTRO] Thanks to a rainy spring, morel mushroom are popping up all over the Northwest.  That means an abundance at local farmers markets.  Today on the Market & Garden Report, correspondent Guy Hand is going to follow morels from the market right into the kitchen — and get advice on cooking these highly prized mushrooms.

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(Hand) At the Capital City Public Market, Chris Florence of Sweet Valley Organics has a table loaded with morels.

(Hand) Is this a good season for morels? (Florence) It’s been the best year for native morels that we’ve seen in a long time.

(Hand) How about the price this year; is that any different than other years?  (Florence) Definitely. We’re seeing lower prices across the board and that’s really helping expose a lot of people that normally don’t buy morels.

Chris Florence of Sweet Valley Organics with fresh Idaho morels

(Hand) Florence says these unique, cone-headed, convoluted mushrooms are native to the Northwest.

(Hand) And you get yours in this area? (Florence) Yea, we’re getting them all over Idaho right now, about three hours, four hours away from Boise.  (Hand) Where exactly?  (Florence)  In the secret spot (laughing).

(Hand) Chris Florence delivers a lot of his mushrooms to Peter Blatz, chef/owner of the Cottonwood Grille in Boise.  I thought I’d head over there for some morel cooking tips.

(Sounds of door opening, kitchen)

(Blatz) So, simple is the best.  What I like to do is start of with a little bit of olive oil . . .

Chef Peter Blatz of Cottonwood Grille sauteing morels

(Hand) To a saute pan with hot oil Blatz adds a little chopped garlic.

(Sounds of stirring) (Blatz) So I’ve got the garlic in the pan.  And I’m moving it around because I don’t want just the outside, the edges to get caramelized.  Now I’ll add some chopped shallots.  That sweetness goes very, very well with the morels.

(Blatz) So now I’ll reach over, grab a handful of mushrooms.  And this is the only time of year that you’re going to be able to do this, to reach over and pick up a handful of fresh morels.  It’s magic.

(Hand) He doesn’t chop the mushrooms.  He tosses them into the pan whole.

Sauteed fresh morel mushrooms with garlic, shallots, wine and butter

(Blatz): The thing with the morels is because it’s seasonal and because they’re not cultivatable, like you can’t grow morel mushrooms.  It is just nature’s gift to us and when they’re gone, they’re gone.  So that’s what makes them just so incredibly special.  Most wild mushrooms can be cultivated, the morels are a mystery.  And I think that’s really cool.  The other part of it is the earthy flavor that it brings.  I mean it’s unlike anything else.

(Blatz) Alright, so I’m going to put a little bit of white wine in here but you can use chicken stock, you don’t have to use white wine.  If you can see the pan, see how it’s starting to sing to use?  That’s the mushrooms releasing their water.  And, again, I don’t like to cook morels thoroughly through.

(Hand) Blatz swirls in a chunk of sweet butter and pulls the pan off the burner.

(Blatz) Add a little fresh chive and parsley and I’m going to call that good.

(Hand) At the Cottonwood Grille, Peter Blatz likes to serve the morels with a rock shrimp risotto, with steak, fish or even in a salad.

(Hand) For Edible Idaho’s Market & Garden Report and Boise State Public Radio, I’m Guy Hand.

Chef Peter Blatz with a morel mushroom laced rock shrimp risotto

Idaho Morel and Rock Shrimp Risotto

Serves 6

Risotto:

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tbs. chopped garlic
  • 2 tbs. chopped shallots
  • 2 cups Arborio rice
  • 1 quart hot chicken stock
  • ½ cup chopped or scrap morel
  • Salt and pepper to taste after cooking

Procedure:

In a good thick non-reactive pot, golden the garlic in the olive oil. Add the shallots and mushrooms, then sweat (removing excess water), add the rice and stir constantly toasting the grains (2 mins.). Add the chicken stock 1 cup at time, stirring constantly, while the stock is absorbed slowly in to the rice. Continue this process until the rice is al dente. Taste and correct the seasoning. Set aside moist.

Rock shrimp and morel risotto

Rock Shrimp and Morel Risotto:

  • 2 tbs. olive oil
  • 2 tbs. chopped garlic
  • 2# cleaned rock shrimp
  • As many morels as you can eat
  • ¼ cup dry white wine
  • 1 tbs. sweet butter
  • 2 tbs. chopped Italian parsley
  • The warm prepared risotto
  • Fresh baby spinach or asparagus (steamed), optional

Assembly:

In a stainless steal sauce pot golden the garlic, adding the morels and butter. Toss them in your pot so as not to scorch the garlic before the mushroom release their water. When the morels start to soften add the shrimp, lightly seasoned with salt and white pepper, and stir them to incorporate everything together. Quickly add the warm risotto and parsley. Adjust the seasoning and correct the consistency with stock. Add the spinach to wilt right before serving. Shaved parmesan cheese makes a great addition, but is not needed.

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